Sean Sherman (born 1974)[1] is an Oglala Lakota Sioux chef, cookbook author, forager, and promoter of indigenous cuisine.[2][3] Sherman founded the indigenous food education business and caterer The Sioux Chef, as well as the nonprofit North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems. He received a James Beard Foundation Leadership Award and his 2017 cookbook, The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen, won the 2018 James Beard Award for Best American Cookbook. In 2021 he opened a restaurant, Owamni, in Minneapolis, Minnesota that serves dishes using ingredients present in North America before European colonization. Owamni won the 2022 James Beard Foundation Award for Best New Restaurant.
Sean Sherman | |
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![]() Sherman at his food truck in 2021 | |
Born | 1974 (age 47–48)[1] Pine Ridge, South Dakota, U.S. |
Education | Black Hills State University |
Culinary career | |
Cooking style | Indigenous cuisine |
Award(s) won
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Website | sioux-chef |
Sherman was born in 1974 and grew up on his grandparents' ranch on the Pine Ridge reservation in South Dakota.[4]: 1 [5] He hunted and foraged from an early age, recalling his grandfather giving him a shotgun on his seventh birthday.[4]: 77 [6] He grew up eating many government commodity foods[6] such as cereal, shortening, and canned hash, which he cites as the norm he seeks to depart from.[7] He attended Black Hills State University.[8] His grandparents were fluent in Lakota.[4]: 1
Sherman got his first restaurant job washing dishes at 13, soon moving onto the line.[7] He spent a summer working for the US Forest Service in the Black Hills, identifying plants.[9][10] He spent most of his twenties working in a series of Minneapolis restaurants[11] and by 27 was working as an executive chef.[12] By 29 he was burnt out and spent some time in Mexico regrouping; while in Puerto Vallarta he spent time with some Huichol people and had an "epiphany", saying: "After seeing how the Huicholes held onto so much of their pre-European culture through artwork and food, I recognized I wanted to know my own food heritage. What did my ancestors eat before the Europeans arrived on our lands?”[11]
In 2014 Sherman founded indigenous food education business and caterer The Sioux Chef. The Washington Post called it "a homonym to another ... culinary concept",[2] the sous-chef.
He founded the nonprofit North American Traditional Indigenous Food Systems (NĀTIFS) with his business and life partner Dana Thompson.[6][10] The organization includes the Indigenous Food Lab, which works with ethnobotanists to record the earliest names of native plants.[6] In 2015, he and Thompson launched Tatanka Truck, a food truck that offers such dishes as bison wild rice and teas made from cedar and maple.[13]
In 2017 Sherman co-authored The Sioux Chef's Indigenous Kitchen, published by the University of Minnesota,[6] which won the 2018 James Beard Award for Best American Cookbook.[14] In order to create the book's recipes, he interviewed older community members and searched archives for descriptions of traditional Lakota foods.[5] Recipes in the book contain no dairy, wheat, beef, pork, or cane sugar, as these are non-indigenous ingredients, brought to North America by European colonizers.[5][14] Sherman describes the recipes as "hyperlocal, ultraseasonal, uber-healthy [and] most of all, it's utterly delicious."[5] Publishers Weekly called the book, "an illuminating guide to Native American food that will enthrall home cooks and food historians alike."[15] That same year he prepared a six-course dinner at the James Beard House.[2]
In 2018 he participated in a National Museum of American History roundtable at the Food History weekend event.[5] During the event he prepared a traditional dish, Mag˘áksic˘a na Psíŋ Wasná, duck and wild rice pemmican.[5]
In 2019 Sherman received a James Beard Foundation Leadership Award, which recognizes people and organizations that "(work) to change our food world for the better."[16]
The New York Times called his style "colorful and elegant".[7]
Sherman abandoned the use of ingredients that are not endemic to North America[17] after having "an epiphany" while working at a restaurant in Mexico that used local ingredients[18] and realizing that the traditional foods of the Oglala were "completely unrepresented in American cuisine."[19] He objects to indigenous cuisine being called "the next big thing", saying, "This is not a trend. It's a way of life."[2] He told the James Beard Foundation, "We're not trying to cook like it's 1491. We're trying to take knowledge from the past and evolve it for today."[12]
Along with some other Native American chefs,[2] Sherman rejects frybread, often associated with "traditional" Native American cuisine, calling it "everything that isn't Native American food"[20] and writing that it represents "perseverance and pain, ingenuity and resilience."[4]: 9 While a symbol of resilience,[2] as it was developed out of necessity using government-provided flour, sugar, and lard, these chefs also consider it a symbol of colonial oppression,[2] as the ingredients were being provided because the government had moved the people onto land that could not support growing traditional staples like corn and beans.[21][22] Frybread's significance to Native Americans has been described as complicated[21] and their relationship with it conflicted.[23]
Sherman lives in Minneapolis, Minnesota.[6] He has one son.[24]
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