Culurgiònes, (name in Sardinian language, also called culurgiònis, culurjònes, culijònis, culurjònis, culunjònis, culinjònis, culurzònes, in Italian culurgiòne or culurgiòni) are a stuffed pasta (ravioli type) of Sardinia, also known as angiulotus, that is agnolotti. With this name it is meant both the version made of potatoes, pecorino cheese and mint, a typical culinary specialty of the sub-region of Ogliastra, and others that in the rest of the island adopt different recipes, such as the one of Gallura, which aromatizes the product with lemon or orange peel.[1]
Since 2015 the "Culurgionis d'Ogliastra" have been recognized as a IGP product.
Variants
The dish, depending on the country of origin, is present in several variants:
in Ogliastra and in the inland areas (including Seui, in Ogliastra) they are prepared with fresh durum wheat semolina pasta and a filling of Sardinian pecorino cheese (fresh for one or two days, as in Talana, or seasoned in other towns), or with a filling of potatoes, garlic and mint as in Gairo, Ulassai and Bari Sardo. In the latter town, instead of pecorino, su fiscidu is used, a particular sour cheese put in brine, and the culurgione is closed with the fingers so as to form a small spiga. In Jerzu, the mint is replaced by sa nepidedda, nepitella. The culurgione is then cooked in boiling water and seasoned with olive oil, lately with tomato sauce and grated pecorino cheese.
In all the mountain Ogliastra and in Bari Sardo the stuffing is strictly accompanied by garlic, while in the coastal Ogliastra by sofritta onion.
The culurzones of Barbagia di Ollolai, also imported from Ogliastra, are stuffed with fresh pecorino cheese and are served with a tomato sauce and diced pork, or alternatively with tomato sauce and fresh sausage, all topped with grated seasoned pecorino cheese.
in southern Sardinia, and generally in the Campidano area, there are other recipes for culurgiones: the ravioli is prepared with fresh durum wheat semolina pasta with a filling of fresh sheep or goat ricotta cheese, egg and saffron (and the addition in some cases of Sardinian pecorino cheese, nutmeg, chard or spinach). After cooking, the culurgioni is seasoned with fresh tomato sauce, chilli pepper and basil and a sprinkling of pecorino or other grated cheese. In Teulada, on the other hand, a simpler recipe is preferred, with a filling of fresh goat cheese (sheep cheese is less frequent) in the quadrangular culurgiones (culixionis in teuladino). The seasoning is usually tomato sauce and a sprinkling of seasoned goat cheese.
Additional information
In the village of Ulassai, until the 60's, the tradition was that culurgiònes were consumed only and exclusively on the day of the dead, Sa di' de sos mortus, November 2.[2]
Throughout Ogliastra and in the villages of Sadali and Esterzili of the Barbagia di Seulo, culurgionis (culurxonis, culurgiònis or culingiònis) are not considered just a food, but also may be presented as a gift. They were prepared for special occasions such as thanksgiving at the end of the wheat harvest, to remember and honor the dead, on the day of the commemoration of the dead in November, with sheep fat (culurgiòni de ollu de seu), to celebrate the carnival in February, with lard (culurgioni de ollu de procu). On spighitta, the typical closure of culurgionis, represents the symbol of wheat to propitiate the new agricultural year at the end of August. According to the tradition they were also considered amulets that protected the family from mourning.
References
Cristina Ortolani (2003). L'Italia della pasta. Touring Editore. p.131. ISBN978-88-365-2933-9.
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